Originally Posted by SaWBLaDe
You're totally wrong. With these prices, it would mean that the LEDs would have to cost 1.20 USD each. My superbright blue LEDs cost me 9 cents each after shipping.
Originally Posted by tybrenis
where did you get your LED's?
Nice link, but I don't think people would be dumb for ordering them. Many people don't like or want to have to do the soldering work that it would take to build their own, and these were a quick and relatively cheap alternative to having to make them from scratch.Originally Posted by tybrenis
Lord knows I've already got enough soldering work and other scratchbuilding that needs to get done, if I can find a quick shortcut that does what I need for a reasonable price, then I'm not being "dumb", am I?
Absolutely not.. With jobs and families to support, and little hobbie time already, why waste it soldering LEDs when you can actually work on the fun stuff. You know what they say time is money and for that price its definately still a bargain in my book..Originally Posted by Rankenphile
and these look better then a resistor sticking out of the back of the plug. I think there worth the price and I will probly get some for my mod I'm working on.
You are right, I can understand that they are tedious and take a lot of time, especially for a working man. I am only a kid, and have a decent bit of free time. Financially, making them is better, but if you are talking time it makes sense to buy them, they are a good deal in that sense.
I buy my LEDs off eBay.
Can they be taken back out of the molex connectors or do they stay in place with friction?
From what I can tell, they should be relatively easy to remove, as they seem to be sort of sandwiched between the molex clips to keep them in place. It might require a bit of wiggling and a pair of tweezers or pliers to get them out, btu I'd be surprised if they were permanent.
You'll probably need a Female Molex Pin Remover to do it without damaging the pins.
You get one free when you buy a UV molex sleeving kit for $5
Click "electronics" then "connect right (tm) changeover parts" (bottom of page 1/ top of 2)