Modders Mesh?

[Zephik]

Does anyone know of a good/trusted website or store (Home Depot?) to buy mesh from? I would like "interesting" patterns if possible, but it's not overly important. Also it can't be that cheap flimsy stuff, it has to be nice and strong. Like the thickness of a good side panel? Basically, thick enough to withstand bending and denting caused by user error but thin enough that it isn't overly difficult to work with. (bend, cut, etc.)

I'm going to check around Ebay, but I would rather buy from "trusted" websites like newegg, frozencpu, ect.

Oh one more thing I guess while I'm thinking about it. Can you buy Body Filler from just about anywhere? Like the home depot? or would I have to find a specialty shop to purchase it from? I'm thinking just about anywhere, but I want to make sure for just in case. ^^

Thanks a bunch! ...and no you can't ask what it's for. Thats a surprise!

-SnowFire

[tybrenis]

http://www.mnpctech.com/moddersmesh.html -- The original modder's mesh. Home Depot is a huge let down in the mesh department.

You can get body filler from any auto supply store, Pepboys, Autozone, etc.

[Omega]

yeah, go to MNPCtech for mesh.

As for body filler -- I know you can get it at Lowes, that's where I get mine =]

But if the Lowes or Home Depot in your area fails you, go to an auto parts store.

[Zephik]

Thanks guys!

Hopefully I can custom order a 36" x 17" piece.

-SnowFire

[Omega]

Thanks guys!

Hopefully I can custom order a 36" x 17" piece.

-SnowFire

No problem, glad to be of help.

For working with bondo and mesh, i might suggest some things too:

Bondo:

Always mix it on a nonporous, smooth surface. Not because it's easier to clean, but because it's less of a pain in the ass to apply.
Use a putty knife to mix and apply it... and always keep your putty knife clean. After a few applications you might have some bondo on the knife, and honestly, it's annoying.
Never put too much hardener in. Always start out with a small amount, and if you need more, mix it in before applying.
Mix the bondo with a scraping and flipping motion. Move the putty knife under a mass of bondo, then lift, and flip. make a nice pile of bondo, then spread it out and flip it together again.
If the bondo doesn't hold it's place well, give it something to anchor onto. Anchor holes, like Defyant used in HP Resurrection 3 work well. Crevasses in the plastic/bondo beneath/etc will also work.

Mesh:

Mesh is really easy to bend, cut, etc. Unless you get mesh with a really really strange pattern.
When cutting, always cut where you get the least surface area of metal. This preserves the cutting wheel or blade you're using and makes it easier and quicker to cut.
Don't bother with horribly fancy ways of bending unless you have easy access to them. A couple of clamps and some scrap wood should do the trick.


Hope this helps.

[Zephik]

Thanks again Omega!

How do you know when you have enough or not enough hardener?

-SnowFire

[Omega]

Thanks again Omega!

How do you know when you have enough or not enough hardener?

-SnowFire

It should be a nice shade of pink -- I'll find a pic from my worklog.

see the bondo on the front there? It should be about that color. Maybe a lighter pink.

[Zephik]

ah ic ic! I've seen that color many of times looking through work logs. I don't think even I could screw up trying to reach that color unless of course I put too much in. What happens if I have too much added in?

-SnowFire

[Omega]

ah ic ic! I've seen that color many of times looking through work logs. I don't think even I could screw up trying to reach that color unless of course I put too much in. What happens if I have too much added in?

-SnowFire

If you put too much in, the bondo will dry too quickly and you might end up with a big blob of useless bondo on your applicator and mixing area thingy.

Once you get that color shown, you have about 3 minutes to apply the stuff, which is fine for applying and cleaning your applicator. But if I dries too quickly, you might end up wasting bondo, or it becomes hard to work with.

Bondo has three stages. The first one is unmixed or at least before the second. It's kind of a soupy paste, and with no hardener, it's normally gray. this won't harden on it's own. This stage goes up until the bondo has been mixed and hardened to the point where it is not easily malleable.

This second phase should happen after you apply it all. The bondo should have most of it's original color, and it should feel somewhat hard and sticky. you will also notice that if you cut it or scrape it during this phase, it's kind of crumbly.

The third phase is when you work on it -- about 15 minutes after the second one. This is after the bondo has set and it's nice and hard and ready for sanding. the surface of the bondo should have a color pretty close to the original color (original referring to the color after hardener and bondo is mixed), but when you sand it, it's a lot lighter.


Hope this helps,
Omega.

EDIT:

Oh yeah, and Bondo is a pain in the ass to sand! It's like, you sand it, reapply it, sand it, reapply it, etc ad infinitum! oh the treachery...

At first, you should just put it on there to get the general shape and size. Then apply it more smoothly and precicely, etc. Once it's almost done, there should be little holes where air pockets were. mix the bondo so that it's a lighter pink than the picture (say, use half the hardener or so), and use the stuff to fill in the tiny little things. with half the hardener, it'll take longer to harden, so go watch TV or something.


-Omega

[Omega]

Oh yeah. Don't work with bondo in small spaces or areas with poor ventilation. Also, don't expose it to direct sunlight. I suggest wearing AT LEAST a dust mask when working with it, but a respirator with decent filters is probably better. Also, don't work with bondo when it's too cold outside or too humid.

I suggest doing bondo work in the shade during the summer on dry days.