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Thread: Project XFCN (military style)

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    changed post above as it was a double so a little update

  2. #22
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    Back again with another small update to show you guys how the etching is coming along


    I think it is coming along nicely, I did have some other ideas for the image, but this one seems to be the best choice for the rig as the mp5 was a feature in it.



    The dotting work on this is amazing and I get amazed every time, here is a closer image


    Click here for a full size version of this image to give you an idea of how much time is put into these engravings, with the 1000s of dots involved.

    That’s all for today… p.s don't let the boss catch you reading this at lunch

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    So before I start on about salt water etching here are a few things that turned up.


    One Dremel Moto-saw and one tool stand (the tool stand I had already and despite turning my place upside down I could for the life of me not find it) so thankfully Dremel stepped in to replace it. As for the moto-saw, I needed this as I was unhappy with the look of the side panel with the slits in the side (see previous posts).

    So using the Moto-saw I created a new side panel out of a fresh piece of acrylic, although this still bugged me out and I was not happy as it did not have any ruggedness about it at all.


    Ha ha yes to me this was an epic fail and it still felt pretty flimsy, not happy with it at all, what to do next was quite simple, get some 6mm aluminium sheet.


    This is where the moto-saw came into its own, although it took twice as long as using a jigsaw I wanted the cutline to be as thin as possible and with some WD40 and some perseverance I finally ended up with a proper side panel.


    Now that was done it was time to add a small etching to the panel, I will describe this process as best to my knowledge and accept no responsibility for you getting small electric shocks, or any fumes numbing your mouth lol… (more on this later).

    So the first thing we want to do is set up a stencil, luckily I have a silhouette cameo vinyl cutter so I cut my design out and applied it to the panel.


    It’s important to get the stencil made from outdoor sign vinyl as it is more durable than normal vinyl, I should also point out here, that once I apply a stencil I leave the item alone for 24 hours, just to ensure it is stuck down well, one thing you don’t want to happen is the vinyl to start lifting during the etching process as that will just ruin it.


    On the next day I add some vinyl around the edges just to ensure no seeping salt water gets onto the metal any other place than were I want it, I think this is something that is important too as you don’t want to ruin the thing.


    Yes guys this is a tattoo power supply, the reason I am including this in the guide, is this is what I use regularly to do any saltwater etchings. Its small does the job and works how it is supposed to. Although I it to a charger for the panel, I had already took pics of this for the guide.


    Salt water etching this way is a messy process and as you can see via the towel under the white one, make sure you put something under the towel (I have a large glass chopping block) to ensure you don’t damage the side in your kitchen (Just don’t tell my misses I do this in the kitchen ;P). Before we get started I should also mention ensure the area is well ventilated, why the gas coming off salt water is not very harmful, in this sort of dose it would be if you let it build up.

    So onto the etching, first attach the positive lead to the piece you are doing.


    Then place your cotton wool bud into your salt water mix (the mix is a hit a miss affair really, too much and your create way to much heat. This will then lifts up your stencil and mess everything up.


    Then attach it to the negative cable (I know it has red, but this is way I made this cable, and once done I could not be bothered to change it). I thought I would have an issue with this though and I was right, the tattoo power supply could not give enough oomph due to the size of the panel. Although it was more than enough for the knifes I have done, it was time to swap over to a Car battery charger.


    Due to the size of the connecters on the battery charger you want to get some of your misses or sisters (depending who’s stuff is nearer) face pads or cotton pads, wrap them round the cotton wool bud and clamp them with the connector. Once done dip into the salt water and then push down on the towel to get rid of any excess water off the pad.


    Then start going over your stencil, check every few seconds that the cotton pad is not becoming too hot, if it is water down your salt water mix. You will hear it sizzling when it is working, also do not breathe in any of the fumes that come off the panel,. The fumes will not kill you but having made the mistake once you will know why you should not breathe them in. (can you say numb and tingling mouth? I did once, but never again so you have been warned.


    This was after 30 minutes of going over the stencil, it was not as deep as I would have liked, but it was my first time using this method with aluminium rather than steel and it’s quite funny that the steel is easier to work with, but his could also be down to the size of the panel, although 30 minutes was good enough to get a 1mm depth on the stencil.


    After a little polish you can see roughly what all that work was for, this is now embossed into the side panel and will still be there once painted. Until the next time.

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    Awesome guide. Thank you.
    I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    Quote Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post
    Awesome guide. Thank you.
    no problem, people could add some white vinegar to the salt water, for faster and deeper, but then a chemical proof mask would be needed.

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    Hi all back for an update, first point of call now I had done the etch on the custom side panel, it was time to mount it, I decided to use some smaller Allen bolts for these to give an almost pot riveted look.


    I had to do this anyway to ensure the 6mm aluminium piece would stay mounted to the 1mm steel panel behind it, it is almost a shame to paint it really, but as the themes is military (with red, grey white and black) it has to be painted too.

    Moving on now I have done this it is time to make some holes to accommodate the fill and drain ports in the case.


    The drain port hole is placed near the PSU, with just enough room for the fitting and the pipe to squeeze in, also it seems the most logical place due to the fact the curvature of the case outer panels (in this case the feet support) would be in the way if it was placed any other place.


    The top fill port hole was placed in the exact opposite location leaving only enough room for the fan, I done this as mentioned due to the curvature of the case.


    Top mounted Primochill fill port in place on the roof of the case.


    The bottom Primochill drain port mounted in place to check fitment, now both of them locations are fixed, before I strip the case down to plan the watercooling I want to do a little mock-up of the gun placements, just to get a rough idea.


    Top mounted MP5 in place with room to spare for one of the USB ports and headphone and mic jack so they are useable.


    MP7 mounted to the side panel via leg holster, might not be every ones cup of tea, but as they say in blighty horses for courses. Another update will be coming this weekend stay tuned.

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    So as my last image posted was of the guns mounted, let’s take a look at the Umarex replicas themselves, we will start off with the Umarex HECKLER & KOCH MP5 A5 an electric based Airsoft replica that can be found here.











    As you can see the detailing is amazing on this one to one replica and makes a great choice for the external function (XFCN) part of this mod, the trigger is the power switch and also the safety works so no one can just go up to the pc and pull the trigger resulting in a power down.


    Moving on to the next Umarex replica, this is a gas blow back airsoft rifle and is a another great one to one replica of the real HECKLER & KOCH MP7 NAVY , this is my favourite of the two and actually has some good kick back when fired. More info on this can be found here








    My favourite of the two of these simply to its accuracy to the real one and although the build quality on both is superb I have to say I prefer the size of this one. Here a couple of hdr shots of it loaded out with scope, folding foregrip and side sights.



    That’s all for today, I will be venturing into the build part soon as panels have been sent off for painting, stay tuned for more.

  8. #28
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    Back again with another small update, this time some photos of the rest of the stuff going inside the mod.


    Many thanks to Swiftech for stepping in to supply the res/pump combo, the excellent Apogee XL which as you will see matches the build well, first up we have the radiators.



    Due to the limitations put on me by the case I decided to go for 2x 140mm radiators, the Swiftech MCR140-QP were the perfect choice, I am not 100% sure I will need both as this is only going to be a CPU loop. But I thought I better cover my bases on this one, next up the res/pump combo.




    I like the way Swiftech have implemented the pump on this reservoir, it is a nice touch, and built incredibly well.


    Also unlike most pumps, Swiftech are moving with the times on this and instead of the old molex connector for power, we have a sata, why not a major selling point the Swiftech brand has a good reputation anyway and have been around a very long time.


    Moving onto the mounting brackets, Swiftech have made a very good attempt to make sure the res is secure, I also have to applaud them for making the mounting bracket with the slot in the middle, as some of you know when using a dual bay res with a case with supports for DVD drives sticking out, most modders either bend them flat or cut them out, with this res there is no need to do either as the slots allow you to just slide it in. Nice touch indeed.


    They even have covered you on the fill port side by adding another mount point on the res, as you can see above, these two fitting holes are there as well as the one on the end of the pump. I have to say the Swiftech Maelstrom V2 Dual Bay Reservoir is one of my favourite dual bay reservoirs for practicality and ease and if I had the choice I would use this in all of my builds. Onto the cooler


    Getting the apogee out of the box It was a pleasing sight to see the block comes with not only the included blue colouring but also white, red and green. It’s nice to have colour options and of course red is going to be placed in this build.



    I suppose could go on about how well engineered this is, but in reality those of you that have used Swiftech products now they have been on top of their game for a while now and you should expect quality when you buy one of their products.


    To change the colour over is as easy as pulling these pins (I used a craft knife to get under them), then you are faced with this.


    Then it’s just a case of flipping that out and replacing with the colour of your choice, quick, simple and very easy. Why we are on the subject of water cooling, let us take a look at the Primochill products.


    A massive thank you for Primochill for stepping up to the plate on this build, not only did they provide me with the tubing and revolver fittings for this hardline kit, they also supplied me with a bender, some heat proof gloves, the dye and some fan grills for the project, as well as loads of little mod smart clips and dust covers and a flow meter.


    For the flow meter I went with the PrimoChill Vortex Black POM flow indicator with the blood red to tie in with the theme.


    I also went with the PETG tubing as this rig will do quite a bit of travelling between places I wanted to make sure it had some strength, why the acrylic is clearer it is not really ideal if you transport a rig around, so it’s a safe bet to use the PETG instead.



    On the compression fittings for the build I have gone for the red revolver fittings, these tie in with the colour scheme well and obviously are the right choice for this. Stay tuned for more updates soon as I get closer and closer to the build being complete.

  9. #29
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    So Just another little update, with some of the parts being used and a little bit of vinyl work, first up is the small, but important pieces of the puzzle from BitFenix.


    Some lighting, the all-important extension cables for mobo power (to run from weapon down to mobo power) and of course some sleeved extension cables.


    I bet right now, you may be a bit confused, due to the black and gold choice, but the explanation is quite simple, you see the logo I done on the side panel.


    Well this will be also cut out of gold vinyl and will be added to the roof and the reverse black side to break it up, plus having my own vinyl cutter means I will be adding the red, black, white and grey camo to the inside as well, so having gold breaks that up and matches the logos outside too, anyway back onto the parts.




    Thanks to Kingston for sponsoring me with to different colour kits to match the motherboard memory slots on my chosen motherboard, the kits supplied are viewable here, I almost wish the motherboard had 2 extra memory slots so I could mix in a white kit too . Moving on to the main components we have.


    The rest of the internals are made up of a Asus Crosshair V formula Z to handle the FX9590 Black edition CPU, you would be amazed with the hassle had choosing a board for the CPU, Other manufactures do offer support on their AMD motherboards, but they have to be certain revisions and a quick phone around comes up with the problem that stock is a mix of revisions and no one can ensure you get the right one… go figure. The PSU is a XFX modular and Hard drive wise I will be throwing in 4 smaller 120 GB Samsung SSD’s in raid.


    The motherboard ties in with the colour scheme and as you can see the memory sticks with match the slots on the motherboard.


    Both cards are the XFX R9 290, which together should provide more than enough grunt for the rig, why I am on the subject of the cards ill vinyl these before moving on with the camo effect from outside, but done a lot smaller.



    That’s all for now, need to add some vinyl to inside of case and attach cpu block to the motherboard.

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Project XFCN (military style)

    Back for another update, now with the panels out to be sprayed, I decided to crack on with the innards and get some work done. First up was making the cut for the front mounted radiator, this had to be done to ensure it gave the radiator some room to breathe.


    Once the cut was made I decided to tidy it up with carbon fibre and some rubber edging, I like the way it came out as it made for a much cleaner look.


    Placement of the radiator was actually limited quite badly in this case, with this being the only really viable spot in the case, even having 140mm fan mounts on the bottom, roof and back there was no room to put one of these in any of them spaces, it would just not fit, so as the rig was not going to have the cards water-cooled I decided to leave it at that

    Next on the agenda in this instance was to lay down a bit of the cammo scheme in vinyl to match the cards.


    Now that was done it was time to mock fit the motherboard, and put in in with the cards to get a feel for the flow, so time to add the Swiftech Apogee XL with the Primochill revolver fittings to the motherboard.



    As you can see with the red insert in the block with the red fittings, the block matches the mobo well, it’s actually starting to come together now and look the way I am going for. Time to fit it all to see how the look is starting to come together inside the case.



    Now that all the vinyl is laid down, next instalment will be the Primochill Petg bending to add to the build, not sure how that’s going to materialise at it will be my first time using it. But I am sure it wont be that hard, to be honest I am starting to love this build more and more. P.S sorry about pics this time, camera ran out of batteries so a couple are from my mobile

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