I was figuring on laser engraving the caps. They could be engraved more deeply, like around 0.015"-0.020" deep, then filled with metallic paint and the surface buffed. Actually embedding metallic letters would require a method for holding them in place (another mold) and you'd have to get the metallic letters to begin with. The laser engraved version allows for more flexibility with fonts, font size and placement, etc. With it painted in an engraving, you get the benefit of your lettering never rubbing off (or it'll take far longer than you or the keyboard will last anyway).
I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
Ooh, now we're talking!
Would one simply press them in place onto hot plastics which haven't yet cured/hardened? Or would best results be obtained from some sort of precision-fit laser machining? I suppose the symbols could be made of plastic, metal, or whatever.
I'm looking around for teeny tiny LEDs, perhaps one of the SMT varieties, which (along with necessary 30AWG wiring) could physically fit within the Cherry MX keystems. Preferably something multicolour - backlighting ain't no good to me unless it's available in a full rainbow of shades I'll hardly ever use.
Which leads to another question: can one purchase clear Cherry MX keystems to retrofit existing switches? I suppose there's always the so-called Cherry MX Clear keyswitches, but methinks their tactile characteristics might be a bit too stiff for my liking. I haven't ever had any to examine, so I'm unsure whether I can use those components while maintaining the "feel" of my much-beloved Cherry MX Browns.
The only 3D printers I can readily access don't have fine enough capacities; they are rather low-budget older models, used mainly for "large" prototypes/models, not very useful for anything much smaller than, say, the housings on a coffee-maker.
And I need enough of whatever components to produce a complete keyboard, so roughly 100 pieces (some extra keys for macros, multimedia, etc, although they needn't necessarily use the same switches as the main QWERTY block).
My mind says Technic, but my body says Duplo.
30AWG is the smallest wiring I have on hand, 32AWG is the smallest I can find to purchase (locally). It's just meant to carry <5V and <50mA signals, so it should suffice. I want wires thin enough to string into and through mechanical keyswitches without obstructing their functionality. If I choose SMT-variety LEDs in every keyswitch then I can gain more versatile backlighting options at the cost of much extra work.
The Merc Stealth keyboard uses 8 SMT LEDs strung out along the edge of a 0.25"-thick chunk of transparent plastic with holes drilled out for the (rubber) keyswitches to pass through ... the cheapish Holtek controller is programmed for only 3 intensities of 3 colours (plus Off), but the overall backlighting effect is most impressive. I might go with this approach, I don't have any real need to control backlight settings for individual keys or groups of keys (the latest/greatest marketing gimmick for gaming keyboards, lol, almost got caught up in it).
My mind says Technic, but my body says Duplo.
lol, 000AWG seems unworkable for this project. Never seen a USB hub which could deliver 200A ... nor a USB Tesla Coil to plug into one.
Got me thinking a little, though. Gotta put some juicy caps or secondary battery onboard.
My latest innovation, all worship my inspired moddy awesome sauce: I will integrate an infinitely useful "CALCULATOR" toggle (and display) near the Numpad! The fun just never stops.
My mind says Technic, but my body says Duplo.