Midlag Crisis

[msmrx57]

That spotting looks like what fish-eyes in paint look like. They're caused in paint by contamination of the surface (usually oil of some sort). So maybe do another test with the metal OCD clean? Even with the spots it's a cool look and worth further trials even if you don't have the time get it perfected for this build you could use it in the future.

By the way this is looking really good so far.

[Waynio]

That spotting looks like what fish-eyes in paint look like. They're caused in paint by contamination of the surface (usually oil of some sort). So maybe do another test with the metal OCD clean? Even with the spots it's a cool look and worth further trials even if you don't have the time get it perfected for this build you could use it in the future.

By the way this is looking really good so far.

Ahh, thanks for pointing that potential effect out msmrx57 appreciated, bit of an extreme case of it.

I'll try some surface prep for round 2.

[Waynio]

Wow, tried something different & I've got a real anodising alternative, I'll post ASAP.

[Stonerboy779]

Wow, tried something different & I've got a real anodising alternative, I'll post ASAP.

Eagerly waiting

[Waynio]

Eagerly waiting

Here we go.

Super fun happy ramble.

Well I've really gone & found an anodising alternative & the most difficult bit is mastering applying metal lacquer in 1 coat (something I'm working on perfecting), had a glob bit but that's due to the brush I used for applying dyed lacquer so still had some green in there lol & had 1 blank dot which I don't know how that happened but the result compared to brushing dyed lacquer is infinitely better, I think this is as close to anodising as I'll get without anodising.

Here is what I done.


Roughed up a piece of 5221 grade aluminium with 150 grit wet'n'dry paper.

Cleaned it with the t-shirt I'm wearing lol.

Applied 1 quick brush of metal lacquer on all sides & edges.

Cured fast with heat gun.

Picked out the shabbiest source pan hopefully no one would miss filled it with water & brought to the boil & got it to simmer.

Then dumped some black dylon clothes dye powder in the water which I bought quite a while ago for dying plastics, gave it a stir, threw the aluminium strip in & left it for a few seconds, pulled it out & it was taking the dye so put it back in & let it continue for 5 to 10 minutes checking on it now & then to make sure it was getting darker, it sure was, yipeeee.

It didn't look very black & more of a burnt colour but gave it a wipe with tissue, it didn't come off which was an awesome sign & still looked a burnt colour so then took it to the sink to rinse off any excess dye & the piece turned nice & black like magic I was rather joyed & still am, dried it & tried scratching it to see how resistant it is & it is very resistant to scratching, even more than just metal lacquer so this is just perfect.

I'm showing all the pictures I took of the coloured piece, because this is a breakthrough for die hard no outsource modders who want to anodise but won't due to it being hazardous & many other types I believe, dying aluminium without anodising it WTH.

This is pretty big for modding I think, I'm pretty chuft I found an alternative environmentally nice solution for something I've been wanting to do for a couple of years but never put much effort into it not thinking on enough whenever trying & all because I'm a cheapskate who isn't keen on outsourcing lol wouldn't have been looking for the solution without that, it's not just nicely coloured but still maintains the texture of the aluminium & it's even scratch resistant, awesome.


To do the bigger panels on lean & green I'll have to use a big deep baking tray but this is that awesome I think I might be dreaming & I'll wake up any moment gutted it was just a dream lol, was expecting when I gave it a wipe for it to just fall off or crumble off or something but it's hard, definitely a true alternative to anodising.

Anodising makes a super thin film much like metal lacquer so it just kinda made sense it would work as long as the lacquer would stay on in the hot water, luckily it does & clothes dye gets into it, my unwillingness to outsource has really paid off nicely on this one, it also doesn't prevent heat transfer too, I know this due to Stealthlow, the HDD bays collect the heat from them & even warm the side panels & everything is brushed with metal lacquer on it so does nothing bad for heat transfer, I don't think I'd use this method for water blocks though.

You can't dye aluminium without anodising, reheheally.

Only further testing I'll need to do now is getting times needed for different shades & establishing the perfect temperature but man I'm really pumped about this, the monkey with cymbals in my head is going nuts doing back flips.

I'm calling this method Lacqodising.

[Stonerboy779]

That is so awesome just make sure you get your pieces properly clean so you don't end up with dots haha.

[d_stilgar]

So, is it sticking to lacquer or to the metal? That's pretty awesome!

[Waynio]

That is so awesome just make sure you get your pieces properly clean so you don't end up with dots haha.

Thanks mate, yeah that fish eye effect was extreme fish eye lol, never even heard of it until msmrx57 said.

So, is it sticking to lacquer or to the metal? That's pretty awesome!

It dyes the lacquer not the aluminium, my face really lit up when I seen it worked, very hard wearing too.

So with it only dying the lacquer, surface prep & a really good covering with the lacquer is so important, I'm thinking about dunking parts into the lacquer, I'll try that on small scrap parts to see how well it works, spraying is another alternative though.

I have intentions of sanding internal cut edges though to create a nice contrast, that will be the time consuming patience testing part & I'll need some kind of wire hanging hooks for pulling it back out while I dry it.

Really looking forward to perfecting this finishing method though.

The extra awesome thing about it though is it could be applied to any type of metal.

[Waynio]

Re made all the motherboard trays, seems I didn't account for the extra 1mm allowance for the motherboard IO shield so had to squeeze motherboards into place, they are good now, done it for Midlag Crisis & both systems in Lean & Green.

Now this system will work right, everything else is perfect fit.

Got my screws so this thing will come together over the next days, I'll try another test or 2 for the lacqodising, going to try dunking panels into the lacquer but on scrap to see how good or bad that is compared to brushing it on.

[Waynio]

Did these for 20 minutes & tipped the rest of the black clothes dye in the pan which I'd say will be round about 3 teaspoons of dye powder.

Background a real black anodised panel, upper piece is double dipped in metal lacquer, lower piece is single dipped, looks far from good & the strength is very weak, could scratch it off easily = BOTH EPIC FAIL.

Back to Ox hair brush, upper piece is half double coat & half single coat, lower piece is first test, double coat with stronger dye I don't like, single brush with stronger dye = WINNING.
And yes the adhesion is mighty fine like the first test.

Winning one with real black anodised background.

Group.

I think I'd use double the amount of dye for a project just for that little bit of overkill & unless I want naked corner edges for a stand out outline contrast on everything I'll have to round edges off, extra attention to surface prep work will be needed so that will be smoothing, brushing & then thoroughly cleaning before brushing lacquer on 1 side at a time doing the bottom side first & top side last so it stays best side.

This is pretty much conclusive as far as I'm concerned but even so I'll do more tests when I get a timer to dye a pile of small bits taking 1 out every 30 seconds to make a shade chart for how long is needed for what shade, for all I know they might be up to full shade in 5 minutes, just don't know yet.