"MybadOmen's" New NZXT Build ?

[TLHarrell]

Very nice. Well photographed steps, and good tips on not stripping the threads.

[mybadomen]

Update 6

Hiya Guys i'm back with some more updates. I decided to hang low for a bit and stop logging and just concentrate on Modding. But now im back. I have tons of Photo's for my logs and a bunch of new guides also that i havent decided where to post them yet.

So with that being said Lets get moving on to the build Log which as always i try to share as much as the process as possible so newcomers to this wonderful world of modding can have something to go by. It just makes me feel better showing how its done and explaining it rather then just posting pictures of completed parts.

Last Time we left off we were at about this point in the build.

The case in its stock wardrobe.

Here was me just trying somethings and getting some measurements. Mainly when things start to click and i get that little light bulb over my head.

My scratching. Lol dont look like much but later in the log it will make sense.

I removed the top and front of the Phantom which both come apart basically the same so i will show just the top as its the one that's a little more difficult.

The Top

First i flipped the top over and you can see the 2 Mesh filters a bunch of screws and a new clip system from NZXT that i will explain in the next few photos.

Here is a shot showing the screws and more importantly the new clip system they are using on the 820.

Next i removed all the screws and then figured out how the clips worked.To release the clips i used a small iPhone Flathead screwdriver and put it in between the clips as shown in the photo and gently pry outwards. (Away from the middle of the top) They seem they could break very easy if to much force was used so if you try it be careful.

And when your finished it should look just like this.If you break a thing or 2 just throw them over your shoulder and mod something to replace them. Lol just kidding.

Ok here are the Pieces i am going to be starting with.But the painting process of those build will be done in a few stages and not to bum you out but that will be in the next update as i am trying to keep updates 15 photos or less do to some forum restrictions.

Ok now i am going to go over the materials i will be using and like i said continuing after into the next update.

As many of you already know i can spray basically any paint and have 12 Real pain guns and a few airbrushes but after painting enough and trying plenty of paints i decided i will be just using Krylon Fusion Rattle cans. It is an incredible paint for both plastic and metal. No adhesion Promoter needed for plastics with this paint nor primer on metal (Unless its bare metal i would still use an etching primer. Anyway incredible paint. Dont believe me go buy a can and try it i promise you'll love it.

Next thing i will be using is a wet/dry sandpaper i have a pack of 220 and a multi pack . I usually use a 400 myself personally for this kind of thing. Dont but crappy sandpaper get wet/dry you wont regret it.

I also will be using some mechanic towels (Blue in photo) a lint free micro fiber cloth and some rubbing alcohol I prefer 70% but 50 % will do also if its all you can get.

Never ever paint even spray paint without a mask. for spray paint in a well ventilated area use either of the ones in the photo but when you start getting into guns and Lacquers and more aggressive paints you should upgrade you masks. Its your life and your lungs and the 5 pack of masks you see cost me 1 dollar so their is no excuse not to wear one.But of course i am only giving advice as i would hate to see anyone get hurt over something so simple.

Stay tuned for the rest of this update and more soon and its nice to be back. I think you guys will really get a kick out of where this build is going.

Take Care my Friends,

MybadOmen


To be continued ......

[mybadomen]

Update

Hiya guys and thanks for coming back to check out another update if you are here This update is just continuing on from the last and seeing there will be a few different times i am painting on the case i will try and keep them in order the best i can.

Ok so last update we left off showing the meterials i was going to be using to paint the Mesh on the top and the fron of the Phantom 820 the old fashion Spray bomb method which with the right paint can be just as durable as using my guns and look just as nice to a point of course.

Here i will walk you through what i did to prep and paint the mesh. and here is where we left off in the last update.

The Mesh just removed .

First i washed them in some luke warm water with Dawn brand dish soap to remove all the grease or anything that could be on the case.It is important to do this before sanding as the sanding will just spread the oils or whatever is on the case or part you are painting all over the place. ( Sorry no Photo of this step wasnt even thinking about it at the time i did it) But its simple enough.

Next i decided to go with a 400 Grit wet/dry sandpaper for the Mesh because i dont want to remove the old paint, I only want to remove the shine or basically scuff it up so the paint can bond good to it. Seeing i know how good this Paint bonds i know i can easily get away with a 400 grit which is finer then a 220grit. (Higher the grit the finer the sandpaper).The reason i dont want to remove the old paint is because i will then be left with bare metal and in that situation you need to use an etching Primer before you can paint.

Sand everything and both sides.Try not to miss places as that will be the place you have the chance of peeling paint etc. With the paint i am using i doubt it ever but just be be safe thats what really should be done.

Now as in the update before this i showed and talked about the materials i would be using and as you can see i am using the 70% Alcoholand shop towels to wipe everything clean until no black shows on the towels. I then at then end whipe it quick with a clean Microfibre rag or a Rak rag depending on what i am painting. Microfiber is fine for what i am doing.

Here is how dirty it was even though after sanding it seems to be clean. So if i just painted without cleaning there is a good chance the paint would peel or fish eye on me.

Here is a Photo showing the mesh Properly prepped for painting, If you look close you can see its lighly scuffed up but not down to metal. (Dont worry there will be spots you go through to bare metal just try to avoid it is all)

Next i hang the Mesh in my Messy Shed i i have been mosty using my shop inside the house now so havent got a chance to get it more organized. Besides that i blew all the dust out first with my air compressor and Vaccumed .Its also good practice to wet the floor if you are somewhere that is possible to do to keep the dust down. But again with what i am painting here its not really that necassary.

Note i am hanging the mesh by one of the clips in case i get a mark from where the hanger was ,this way the clip is hidden when the mesh is put back into the case.

Sorry i never get Photos of me actually spraying besides 1 time i think i did .Reason for this is the pain will destroy my camera as its floating in the air sorta like dust when im painting.Not to mention its a bit hard to focus on laying the paint down nice with a camera in my hand.

Anyway start with whats called a Tack coat. This is just a very light coat of paint that barely covers at all and then let it sit in the case of the paint i am using i gave it about 3 minutes as the complete dry time is 15 minutes but remeber thats still not the pain fully cured but it is handable.The reason for a Tack coat is to help avoid getting runs while painting and also to help the paint bond better also so it is rather important. Never try to just paint anything in 1 quick coat and always leave time in between coats.There is a good reason for this also. If you just try and throw a heavy coat of paint on something its for 1 most likely going to run on you or fish eye and also the top of the Paint will dry before the lower coats leaving the paint sorta sealed in so it cant dry. would be a soft finish or peal all kinds of nasty stuff so basically Tack coat and leave time between coats.

Showing the prepped and Finished Mesh:

Looking Very Nice and very durable.

And everything else on the build is in shambles as im working on a few things at the same time on it so ignore the inside for now.But the white Mesh fits where i am heading with this build just right and i think im pretty pleased with it so far but tons to go as far as painting and Modding.

Thanks for Looking guys and i still have allot more to still get logged so will be back very soon with more.

Take Care and Keep Watching.

MybadOmen

[mybadomen]

Update

Hiya again Fellow Modders / enthusiest /Overclockers / etc .

Today's update i would like to start by thanking another talented Modder named Kellen aka (Kaged) many of you may remeber him from his Pink Cancer awareness build that he Modded and raffled off and then donated the 100% of the proceeds to a cancer awareness program. He has also built another Phantom recently called "Lucky 13" which is also another nice mod. but the reason i am mentioning him is many of you may have already known but many dont.Kaged was the person that made all my Vinyl Decals for "Mass Effect 3" and the Masking for "Venom" but the funny part is i have a high end plotter sitting in my house that i just didnt know how to use. So some of the delay on the project is i wanted to learn Corel Draw ,The Plotter software ,how to work with Vectors,Welding Vectors etc. After a few nights with no sleep and Kaged on my PC via remote desktop i finally learned it all and this will be my first Project making my own Masking and Vinyls.So i think a huge Thank you goes out to Kaged for all the help he has given me with this as its not a simple thing to learn and took many days.

That being said lets get on with the Update :

First off this is a Plotter for those that never seen one. This specific one is a Graphtec America Plotter and goes for roughly $2400. new without the stand but you can buy Plotters for a less that will basicaly do the same thing i believe the cricket is similiar also. This particular one cuts Din noc etc and meterial from 24 inches wide to any length. This Plotter was also a gift from someone for my birthday that i work for.Anyway what a plotter does is can take a drawing or name etc and cut a certain metarial like a sticker etc without cutting all the way through. Most sign makers use plotters or t shirt makes.

Here is the plotter i will be using

And here is the Plotter actually working.This is after i made the design i wanted,Converted it to Vector ,Improved the quality of the image and welded it also . (Welding basicaly makes sure the blade dont cross itself or go off the path that you want cut.Its hard to explain but if interested in it more you can Google Plotter welding) and finally i end up with a .cdr file that i sent to the plotter and position it where i want it then send the command to cut. Sorta like a printer.

Here are the first cuts i made but the face was a bit to big so i resized it and tried again. Live and learn .

The material i was cutting was a medium tack masking but when i was finished i relized i had no transfrer tape which is extremly important to apply the masking or a decal and you will see why soon.So what i did was thought about it and went to the local hardware store. I happened to find some low tack Clear Contact plastic used for lining drawers and it was basically the same exact thing as transfer tape so i came back home and could continue working without another delay.

Here is the Contact drawer liner i bought and the other thing in the photo is a cutter i use for all kinds of projects but goes perfect with the plotter.

Now what i have to do is carefully lay the transfer tape or in this case the drawer liner over the masking so it should look something like this when completed. (This is a completed Masking ready to go).

Now that i have the masking i need to clean the surface that i will be painting and placing the masking so just like in previos post i used alcohol ,Shop towels and Microfiber cloth.

First i clean the surface good with the Alcohol

Then i wipe it clean with the Microfiber cloth ,I will repeat this again right before applying the masking to make sure there is no dust at all.

Now we take the backing off the masking (Not the clear transfer tape but the other side) And i then center or position the masking where i want it and since this is going on a pointed area i place the center of the decal or masking on first and then work away from the center with a credit card or squeegy to make sure there are no air bubbles in the blue masking.

Next its time to peel the clear transfer tape off and this can be tricky depending on the design you are working with. The best way i found is pull towards yourself keeping the transfer tape pulled way back as shown in the photo. Also of you have long thin lines in your work start where the line is conected and then pull the tape from that point to the tip to avoid peeling the masking off.

And its off. Not i just make sure there are no bubbles or more important any spots that are lifted where i will be painting as that will destroy the paint job.The reason is the pain will go under the lifted area and just make it messy looking.

Now we simply mask of everything we dont want painted.I am using a medium tack painters tape. (Dollar store i think i got it)

I forgot to mention this the previous update but when i do use Spay Paint i always warm the can in luke warm water first.Thius makes a huge differents in the way the paint flows from the can and gives a smoother finish.

Next i peel the masking off. It takes a little time to get the perfect timing down on when to remove the maksing as to early the paint can be ruined from stringy looking paint thats not dry yet and to late the paint will be stuck to the masking and peal off with it. Its usually not a problem so dont worry to much about it as i am just saying it could happen.

In this case it came out perfect

And still more painting to go but here it is with the door back on for now

Hope you liked the update and like i said the painting is far from done as well as the build as a whole .

Keep watching lots more to come

MybadOmen

[mybadomen]

UPDATE

Here is the latest work on my "Legion" Build and sorry updates are not going as fast as my prior builds but to be honest financially and time wise its very difficult for me as a dad of 3 to afford one mod on top of another even if they are sponsored Mods they still cost allot and i am doing my best so hope you enjoy the build. I figured i would finally come clean and just tell you guys why it takes me so long on these current builds.

Well with that out of the way here is the new Acrylic i made to be part of a motherboard tray when its completed. (The blue is just the protective layer) the color is solid white. Also thi is the second time this was made as i broke the first one.More work has to be dont to it but here it is at this point.

Next came sleeving my PSU. I really dont like extensions at all do to the extra wire and plugs so as always i am doing the whole PSU.

This Sleeving job is being done a little different as i am actually using the new Modsmart Kobra Max Paracord sleeving. This can only be purchased as either a PSU kit or as Extentions but since the owner sponsors me i asked for some of the wire to use on my PSU. The reason you cant but this sleeving alone is because its a New type of Paracord that's actually formed tight to the wire and it would be impossible to put on without a machine.Anyway the stuff is absolutely amazing and i love it. The tight to the wire look is extremely clean looking and easy to work with but don't get me wrong the way i am doing it is still a pain but you can buy the extensions ready to go.

First off the PSU i will be sleeving and rewiring is the Enermax Platimax Fully Modular 1350w (1600wPeak) PSU. Thanks to Enermax and their help with the project.

Here is the Mess i have to work with after cutting the factory sleeving off Looks fun don't it. Yes allot of work but well worth the final results.

Its always fun to find wires crimped together like this photo and makes sleeving just that much harder but i am noticing this in many new PSU's coming out now.So it ends up being a rewiring job rather then just a sleeving job. Every harness is like this on or worse.

I decided to use Red plugs with White and Black Modsmart Kobra Max Paracord (Majority of the color being White) Here are some of the wires done. Looking way better then the photo above.

Thanks for Looking and adding more updates now.

MybadOmen

[mybadomen]

UPDATE

This update will be a 2 part update do to the amount of Photos i separated it into 2 parts that still make sense.


This Update will be on the GPU's and Blocks going into Legion.Legion will be running 2 Nvidia GTX680's with EK's new CSQ line of blocks and there installation .


First off here is the package sent by Nvidia as part of the sponsorship of the Legion build.

Ok lets get started. In this update i will go over doing a single card as if i was going to only run 1. Here is the 680 we will be working on.

First on these cards its very important not to miss this screw on the GPU bracket or you have a chance of breaking your card.

Next you want to remove all the screws on the back of the card that it says to remove in you block instructions. Use directions as it varies from GPU to GPU.

Now carefully split the stock cooler from the GPU also being careful of the small fan wire when separating them. Unplug the Fan wire and you should end up with something like this.

Remove all the thermal Pads and clean the thermal paste from the GPU itself.So its nice and clean like this:

At this point cut the new thermal pads according to your instructions and apply them to the card where the directions also show. And add new thermal paste to the GPU of your choice.I think i used MX4 and you can do the pea sized drop or use an X pattern when applying.That's up to you.I didnt show this photo as the directions should def be used for this part.

Here is the block i will be using the EK FC 680 GTX CSQ block (Nickel/Plexi)

Place the block on the card gently with the screws ready to go.Try not moving the block around at all once you set it down.

Next its time to add the back plate that i should mentioned has to be purchased separately from the block. Here is EK's new CSQ Back plate. I think its damn sexy.

And finally here is what a single GTX680 looks like dressed in EK CSQ Nickel/Plexi Block and Back plate.

Of course there are many different fitting configurations you use on a single card setup like this with the new CSQ blocks.I am only showing this setup as there were complaints or rather confusion when the cards first releases but now EK added another block that gives more options with the newer kits so all issues are gone with that problem. Sorry i got my blocks early so i dont have that adapter to show since i dont need it anyway.

Take care guys and will show the Dual setup in Next Update which will be a short update.

MybadOmen

[mybadomen]

Update Or rather extended from last one.


Hiya Guys back to finish off the GPU setup that will be going in Legion so i will get right to it.

Ok last update i showed the single card setup but Legion will be running dual 680's so this will be a really quick update.


Basically all i am going to be doing next is adding an EK GPU Bridge and Blank off do to the spacing on the Asus Rampage Formula IV x79. Since assembly of the bridge is simple there is really no need to show how to assemble it so here it the EK CSQ Triple Serial Bridge with blank off. This gives me the ability to add third card if i chose to in the future but i highly doubt i will be.

The Bridge simply screws right on the the cards do to the new CSQ design. Here is the block that would be on the Card where you can see it is threaded.

And assembled here is what everything looks like for Legion's GPU power.

Lastly this is how Legion sits at the Moment but tons will be changing soon so keep watching for it.(Ignore the red and black cables)

Thanks Guys for looking and i will do my best to get you updates when possible.

Take Care

MybadOmen

[mybadomen]

UPDATE!

"Modding Top of the case (Rad Support) to fit the EK XTX360 & 6 Enermax Cluster Fans"

Hiya guys i am back with another update ,I know going slow but it will get there. Anyway when i started planning this build which i never really actually plan a build but i did know i wanted an EK XTX360 Rad on Top & the EK XTX240 down Bottom with Push/Pull Enermax Clusters. 6 on top and 4 on Bottom plus my Intake and Exhaust fans of course.

Well after a bit of not thinking of it and working on other things i decided to fit the XTX360 in place (Those not aware its the thickest of the EK line Rads.In this order XT/XTC/XTX) . Seeing my Mass Effect 3 build had the XTC420 up top and is a Switch 810 and the NEW Phantom 820 is the same size and was made for water cooling with holes up top for a 360 or 420 rad i figured i would drop in the XTX 360 with room to spare.

Well when i got the EK XTX360 out of the box and seen how huge it was next to the case i had a feeling i was in for a fun time getting it in. Well right off i bolted it in and it was was to far back and way to low.There was no way possible to get fittings on without some major modding which i went ahead and started.

Its Kind of hard to explain as i forgot to take photos before i went to work but i will try to explain the problem of the Rad fitting.

In this Photo if you look on top of the case the top dips down almost an inch and it is directly centered bringing the Rad to close to the motherboard and rear PCI cutouts of the case.

Here is just another Photo showing how low the Rad is sitting as well as how close to the motherboard it is not to mention the rear fitting threads are literally sitting on the PCI bracket cutouts of the case.

Goal of this Mod: To Fit the EK XTX360 up top , To move it forward and a little of an inch forward from the back. Do the Mod without sacrificing the built in Hue lights, Access to to G1/4 Threads on the rad. And of course to keep everything clean looking in the end.

Here is a good shot showing the issue at hand (Sorry found these photos after )

Ok just the brunt of the work will be in this update the details and making it pretty will come in another when i know all the cutting is done.
[B]

Lets Get Started:

First i had to get a new piece of metal ready to make the new Rad support (Raised and Moved) so i got out some i believe 24 gauge sheet metal and went over to once again another antique tool which is still doing its job like the day it was new. (I love working with Old tools)

Old School Sheet Metal Sheer

This shot is showing what has to go. Its just not happening for me.

And next for the Not so old school tools. I love Using the Plasma cutter the thing is the bomb.I am now cutting out the area i showed in the photo above with the white square.
[B]

Next was time to take out the RotoZip with the angle head attachment which is one of my favorite modding tools and remove the paint that's in the area i will be spot welding. (Another tool i haven't got to play with much)For case modding its ideal compared to welding in my opinion.

Here is the new Rad top being welded together using the Spot welder /Tack Welder or whatever you know it as, I circled it for those that dont know what a spot welder is. This is a 220volt one but you can also get a smaller 110 one also.

Well like i said this update will just be the brunt part of the work. Cleaning it up and cutting out slots for better airflow around the fans is next as well as painting etc. All part of a Process and want to just get what i can while i have the use of these great tools for the day.

As you can see crude but in the end will serve the purpose perfect and be awesome.

Here you can see i have it marked out for more cutting and Dremel work when i get home. I will also smooth it out more and use a filler of some sort to make it look factory when finished.

Smoothed a out a little more as i had a little extra time and worked on straightening the inside edge a bit more.

And Last thing for this update as its getting late and i also did some other fun stuff during the day is to Punch out the 2 holes i need for the rad ports . Just in case i need them.I used a small Knock out tool to do it. You may have seen Bill Owen use the large one for Punching through cases to put in 120mm fans etc in some of his videos.

New Update soon showing the top all finished.

Hope you enjoyed the Update and thank you for watching

MybadOmen

[mybadomen]

Update


Hiya Guys again,

Well if you look at the last update you can see we left off with a New top for my Phantom 820 Legion build making many changes to comfortably fir an EK XTX360 Rad with 6 Enermax Cluster Fans.

Ok so the job was done but it was very crude cut and it was def not optimized for airflow and that's where this update comes in.

Here you can see the basic shape is there but still a mess to deal with. Plus if i bolt a rad on the way it is it will restrict at least 25% or more of the airflow from the Fans.

So i grabbed one of my Dremel's and of course my awesome Smith & Wesson Safety Glasses from Mnpctech and got to work.

And after a little time with the Dremel its time to dig out my beat up files and do some hand filing. (Probably not necessary but im pretty picky)

Now you can see why it was so important i did all that Dremel and filing work. If you look now all of the Fans power will be pushing and Pulling air through the Top rad. Cluster Fans from Enermax are powerful yes but also pretty silent when they run but they def push allot of airflow.

As you can see from this Photo i went from not being able to even fit the rad or get to the fittings to now fit the Rad with 6 Fans and plenty of room to get to the fittings. And yet the Hue lighting is still there also.

Next it was time to try to weld around the rim where the metal was cut to make it look a little better and for a little more strength . Si i grabbed my Mig on low power and tried doing my best to fill the holes from the metal we used which was scrap and tried to fill the cap between the 2 metals to later smooth out.

Me Ready to go !

This is what i am stuck with unless i use body filler which since this will never be seen i dont want body filler in my PC where it will crack when moving it. (Might add something to make it cleaner later because even though its not seen its still bugging me.

By looking at the Photo you can also see how much its moved to the right and forward.

Photo from Underneath :

And Rad sitting in place (Not tight) but there for measurements.

And that's it for this update guys still tons to do Modding the 5.25 bays will probably be next for better airflow of the bottom front fan.

Until Next Update Take care and Thank You for Looking and all your Support.
[B
MybadOmen[/B]

[d_stilgar]

That fabrication is looking really nice. Can't wait to see where it goes.