Remote Igniter System

[TLHarrell]

Put the "firing LED" in parallel with the firing switch with a resistor large enough to drop the voltage below that which makes the igniter burn. When it's armed and you have continuity along the entire line (line is good, and igniter is hooked up right), the LED will light up. When you hit the fire button, it bypasses the LED and drops the full pack voltage down the line.

On your schematic, move the LED connection R1 to before the switch S2.

And get yourself a really, really cool set of switches/buttons for it.

[Snowman]

Put the "firing LED" in parallel with the firing switch with a resistor large enough to drop the voltage below that which makes the igniter burn. When it's armed and you have continuity along the entire line (line is good, and igniter is hooked up right), the LED will light up. When you hit the fire button, it bypasses the LED and drops the full pack voltage down the line.

On your schematic, move the LED connection R1 to before the switch S2.

And get yourself a really, really cool set of switches/buttons for it.

I think I see what your getting at. I will take it back to the drawing board again and call this version 1 and be back with version 2 tomorrow.

[Snowman]

[TLHarrell]

Looks good to me.

[Snowman]

Now to get my enclosure, second battery pack, resistors, and decide if I want a bunch of wire or use a breadboard.

[TLHarrell]

That would be super easy to just point-to-point wire if your buttons, LEDs and wire jack are all panel mount. As far as a battery holder (if your case doesn't have battery holder built in), look into attaching it to the inside of the case with adhesive velcro and use a 9V battery clip to connect the battery pack to the controller wiring. Makes battery changes a breeze. I'm just tossing these ideas in here from experience.