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Thread: R2server

  1. #1
    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default R2server

    It's been a year now since Waaack and myself came up with a plan to build a new server, The question was what to build...The answer R2D2. The Idea came to us at lunch last August the research started shortly after that, In September the Build started.

    The Goals:
    Build a R2D2 clone, Close to screen accurate.
    Make it R/C Controlled
    Sounds and Wireless connectivity are a must.

    This Work log will show what we've done and follow the continuation to completion.

    As a side note, I didn't know about TGS R2PC till I meet CrimsonSky and Scarab this year at MML4. Both these mods are different and super sweet. This is not a contest or am I competing with RTS, we just share Similar interests. Hope you like it...For the first few weeks there will be allot of up dates...As it covers the first year of building, once we catch up updates will come as they happen...I can fully sympathize with CrimsonSky on this, I'm trying to finish as fast as I can, but the Real world keeps getting in the way of my Hobby, so be patients please.


    Crazybillybob

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Here we have the Frame Laid out (the outside has been Routed to shape with a homemade circle jig for the router) The Inside will be trimmed away with a Saber saw.



    Test fitting the Frame Rings to the Aluminum Dome.




    The frame Assembled (the vertical bars are solid aluminum round stock).

    Last edited by jdbnsn; 02-21-2012 at 06:48 PM.

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    I filled the low spots from forming with Auto body Glaze (it's like bondo, just for smaller "pin holes", it's down side is that is shrinks way more than bondo!) Then sanded it down. This was done till you couldn't see any of the seams or dents.



    Next The Primer, Wet sand and remove any high spots (also filled in some more low spots), then 3 coats of prime (wet sand with 600/1000).

    R2's Blue color is tricky, as it's a base of purple mixed with gold fleck and a blue candy top. I don't have the expertise in air painting, so I found a rattle can process that works (this was also based on Mr. Kridders work, with a redneck twist!).

    Here is the base (as you can see it's a Metallic fleck deep Purple). 3 Coats of base then wet sanded with 1000 (I didn't want that orange peel look!)



    The top is a blue anodized spray. (3 coats wet sanded with 1000)
    Then I laid 4 coats of clear (3 wet sanded with 1000, then 1 light to clear up the fog!)




    I've not polished or buffed it in these pics.


    Crazybillybob
    Last edited by jdbnsn; 02-21-2012 at 06:49 PM.

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Quote Originally Posted by TheGreatSatan
    Awwwww...It's gonna be so little and chubby :lol:

    Why couldn't you be different and build an R4 or something?

    Cause there’s like 5 people out there that aren't SW Geeks that knows what an R4 is everyone else will ask "What is it?" But R2 everyone knows. And there's many different Types Of R2's Yours Is an R2D2 mine is an R2-SRV. So they are different.

    Crazybillybob

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    The frame took about 3-4 hours to make, the Alum vertical round bars took about 3-4 hours to cut then drill and tap a 1/4" hole in each end.

    The Skin of the R2-SRV is 0.04" white Styrene (plastic). I got 2 4x8' sheets of this (The body is 18" around and 24"ish tall, plus the legs). If you looking for this stop in and see your friendly neighborhood sign maker, they can get it for you (it was $20us a sheet) Mine was there the day after I ordered it.

    I had cad drawings of R2's body panels that I got printed out on E sized paper. That was lightly spray glued to the plastic. There are 4 sections of skins, the front inner, the front outer, the back inner, the back outer. This was done to give it that raised panel look when I finished cutting out the panels.
    To get a feel for how it would look I taped the Rear outer layer onto the frame, Slipped the resin Power coupler in place and set the Aluminum Dome on top of the frame.






    This is a look into the frame with the Rear skin on, no Dome, no front skins.


    Now I can start cutting out all the panels....This is going to take awhile!
    Last edited by jdbnsn; 03-08-2012 at 10:43 PM.

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Here's what I'm working on now.

    The Drive Train.....
    I'm taking the Scooter motor / rear drive wheel assembly and adjusting it to fit into the feet boxes. I'll also be using the Batteries to power the motors.

    Here is the donor a $49 Scooter form Big Lots


    I've got it disassembled here....not much to it as you can see.


    This Scooter will not engage the drive wheel till it's rolling 3mph...That will not do in R2 so I'm going to get rid of the controller here.


    With the controller gone the 24V charging circuit is very simple.


    I'll be posting more tonight or in the morning, I'm still unpacking R2 from the Midwest R2-builders mini con In Chicago (Bolingbrook) IL this weekend.



    Let me know what you think!

    Crazybillybob
    Last edited by jdbnsn; 03-08-2012 at 10:44 PM.

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Here is the outer foot shell and the scooter motor frame (striped down and Moded). When I make the Center foot shell I'll take more pics. The outers were made spur of the moment, and I didn't have a camera with me.

    The foot shells are made from old computer cases, not the cheap ones these things are 1/32" ish thick. I laid out the pattern on the case and added tabs (to be folded in so I had something to spot wield too.) Then they were cutout a sheet metal cutter (I'll get a pic off this next time too) and a air power nibbler made short work of the cutting. Then a vise , sheet metal Piers and some spare steel blocks and the bending was done. All in all it took about 5.5-6.75 hrs to make two of these (first one took 75% of that time).




    The frame here is still a work in progress. The support brackets on the top of it need adjusted to fit the foot, I still need to cut a slot in the top of the foot shells and put some u channel in there so I can attach the ankle to the foot. Once the channel is in the brackets will be adjusted and welded in place.



    This is how the motor Mount will sit in the foot shell.



    And a look at it from the inside (the part of the foot closest to R2's body)




    Back to work!
    Last edited by jdbnsn; 03-08-2012 at 10:46 PM.

  8. #8
    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Sorry I've been swamped @ work so the updates are a little slow and Lite on content right now. I plan on fixing this shortly The long weekend will give me time to get something’s finished up like the Skins being mounted or at least started the ankles.

    I really would like some feedback here.

    I haven't picked out a motherboard or Proc yet anyone got any recommendations?
    It will be a stretch to get a full ATX Mobo in the little guy, a baby or Mini would fit ok. I'm even kicking around the Idea of ITX but I've never worked with them so some info would be handy!

    Thanks all,
    Crazybillybob

  9. #9
    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Quote Originally Posted by Bum
    I haven't checked this thread in too long. I happened to grow up in Bolingbrook, thought its changed alot since I moved away.

    As I understand it, you're putting the drive wheel in an outer foot. Isn't it going to want to run around in a circle? I'd think putting it in the center foot and putting a servo or actuator on that to turn it would be the easiset way to make him mobile. Maybe I've just read it wrong. Good job with the work so far.
    There will be a motor in each outer foot. This will allow you to drive R2 tank style, both motors fwd = R2 fwd, Left motor fwd +Right motor stop = R2 goes Right, Right motor Fwd + Left motor stop = R2 going Left. The third leg will just have a (or more) ball caster in it. This gives him more maneuverability (he should turn on a Dime!)

    Thanks for the input, Bolingbrook was nice. It had some very nice homes and there was lots of shops and eateries there.


    Crazybillybob

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    High-tech Redneck crazybillybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: R2server

    Here's a little look into what I'm working on this weekend.

    This is a picture of R2D2 built by ILM for one of the Starwars movies.


    It is a 4x27 matrix of 3mm LEDs. I'm working on creating a printed curcuit board with 108 Ultra bright LEDs on it then randomizing the blinking pattern with a Microcontroller. I've been working on it in cad for a while...I'll get some screen shoots of the drawings up.



    Crazybillybob
    Last edited by jdbnsn; 03-08-2012 at 10:50 PM.

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