After doing more reading I think I will go with the Cooler Master HAF-X. Seems that the rest of the WC modding world says its hands down better than they BF-85.
After doing more reading I think I will go with the Cooler Master HAF-X. Seems that the rest of the WC modding world says its hands down better than they BF-85.
That would work, yeah. You would have to send the tubing in through the holes that Antec put there for you though; there's not enough space to do a seamless entry like on my Zeus mod. And the fans are not actually built onto the H2O-x20 kits, they're just normal fans screwed on just like any other radiator. The reason I recommend a set of fans on each side is because that is necessary to move the maximum amount of air through the radiator, regardless of what kind of radiator or fan you are using.
That being said, I think you're right; the HAF-X will suite your needs better.
TBCS 5TB Club :: coilgun :: bench PSU :: mightyMite :: Zeus :: E15 Magna EVThat we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours, and this we should do freely and generously.
--Benjamin Franklin
How did you do your lighting Oneslowz28?
I've been doing research all day. Here is the config I came up with. I figured 3/8" should be enough to cool a CPU and GPU. Let me know if I should change any parts for something else.
Pump: DD-CPX-Pro
Reservoir: Not sure weather a single or dual bay is better.
Single: XSPC 5.25"
Dual: Ideas? No LED's unless they are red.
Radiator: Black Ice GT Stealth 280
Rad Fans: Suggestions?
CPU Water Block: MPC-CPU Block for LGA 1155, 1156 i3, i5, i7
GPU Water Block: DD-Tieton for GTX280/260
Tubing: Tygon 3/8" I guess?
Liquid: I heard Distilled water + some chemical is the best. Thoughts?
Flow Meter / Temp Indicator: Thermaltake Flow TX Plus
System Fan Control: I saw Oneslowz28 used the NZXT Sentry 2 and that looked pretty slick. Any others?
System Fans: Gonna replace the top 200mm fan with 2x Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm fans with red LED's
Fill Port: Danger Den Fillport - Copper/Red
Drain Port: No idea. I like the one Oneslowz28 did but that's a bit beyond my skill set atm.
Do barbed fittings come on these parts? Or do I need to order something else. Also I have no idea what extra fittings I will need. (T's, 90's, etc.)
I am also thinking about mounting the fill port to the top of the case but I'm still trying to find more pictures of the case to figure out how to do it.
Lots of idea's... Now just to figure out the parts and spend some money
His case is lit with this.
I can't weigh in on the WC as I have no experience, but if you do get the Sabertooth TUF please share your experiences with it. It's an interesting looking board.
TheMainMan
over all a decent list, though some things i would change/remove.
i would opt for a newer cpu block such as the swiftech XT, ek Supreme HF (non nickle finish), or XSPC Raza.
i would ditch the rad as it's very thin which is not what you want. pending what your going for (perfromance, silence or both) then look at swiftech, XSPC RX, thermochill, black ice GTX, black ice SR-1 to name a few.
for fans, if your looking for a great price/performance ratio then grab yate loons. i run 18 for my rad setup at 5v all the time.
do not buy ANYTHING thermaltake when it comes to water cooling, they are one of the worst companies around, likewise with Zalman.
also there is no real reason for a flow meter, they normally reduce flow a good deal.
i wouldn't get that fill port as it is aluminum and even though it's not in direct contact with the water, it will still corrode. i know as it happened to me.
swiftech makes an all brass one for a bit less i believe.
for coolant your correct, Distilled water and a biocide like PT nuke PHN or a strip of .999 silver.
most retailers will give you an option to add barbs if they aren't already included.
here are some links that may help
Check out Jabtech, Petra's tech shop, sidewinders computers, and performance pc's for hard to find parts, they have just about anything ever made for water.
http://overclockerstech.com/index.ph...ling&Itemid=88
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/25...rcooling-guide
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=643364
CPU: Q6600 G0 3.5GHz@1.4v (4.2GHz max) / 4790k 4.8ghz @1.265v
GPU: 9800GTX /GTX780 hydrocopper
Ram: Samsung 4GB /gskill 16gb DDR3 1600
Mobo: EVGA-NF68-A1 680i (P32) /AsRock Extreme6
PSU: Enermax Galaxy 850Watt /EVGA 850 G2
HDD: OCZ 120GB Vertex4, Samsung evo 840 250GB
LCD: Samsung 32" LN32A450, Samsung 226BW 22" wide
Sound: Logtiech Z 5500
CPU & GPU: 3x Swiftech MCR320, 2x MCP655, MCW60 R2, Dtek Fuzion V2, 18 high speed yates @ 5v
OK, I'll do some more reading and get a revised parts list together tonight. Still looking for:
Temp monitor
Variable speed fans for case and rad
Variable speed fan controller for 5.25" bay
Coolant dye: Any of these good? I want deep red. I don't think I'm doing UV so the darker the better.
http://www.xoxide.com/primochill-bloodred-dyebomb.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/57...Blood_Red.html
So far from what I've read, I should get 1/2" barbs and 3/8" tubing for a tighter fit?
Are you looking for regular case fans or pwm fans? Any regular fan can be controlled by your everyday potentiometer-based controller. The pwm fans are the ones with the 4th wire and can be controlled with software such as speedfan.
As for the 3/8" tubing on 1/2" barbs...I think some water cooling old timer was having fun at the expense of some noobs if that was posted anywhere. I can only imagine how much of a PITA that would be to install. If you did do this, you'd have to heat the tubing as well as pre-stretch it (a lot) to fit. When it cools, it should be pretty water tight...but it's not going to be easy to disassemble your loop when needed. I'd highly recommend compression fittings instead of barbs. Yeah, they cost a couple bucks more per unit, but they minimize the risk of a leak while still being easy to setup and breakdown.
I'll procrastinate tomorrow.
The lighting in my case is:
2 Blue LEDs in the Danger Den Res
2 12" UV CCFL tubes
1 1 meter NZXT Sleeved Led kit in blue
and my Crucial Ballistix Tracer Ram has blue leds on it that scan when the ram is being used.
Single bay res will be plenty for 1 loop. If running 2 loops go dual.
Go Yate Loon on the Rad fans.
3/8 tygon with 1/2" barbs is a must unless you like leaks.
Sentry 2 is nice. I have had 0 problems from mine.
My drain port is just a $5 PEX ball valve from lowes. On one side the coolant enters, on the other a danger den fill port is there so I can attach a barb with a long tube to it to drain into a bottle / bucket.
Charles (CJ) Gantt: Coil Gun // Biohazard // Circuits // 3D Printer // CoD MW2 Case // TBCS 4GHz Club
Sites: The Makers WorkBench // CJ Gantt Photography
We are not having fun with a noob. 3/8 tygon over 1/2" barbs is very common. Its what I run in my setup and I did not have to heat the tubing or "pre-streatch" it at all. It just takes a little elbow grease and they slip right on. They are a bitch to remove but that is the point of using 3/8 on 1/2" barbs. It allows you to not use clamps for a clean look. I have been running mine that way for almost a year now with no issues at all.
I want to touch on the Thermaltake Water Cooling issue that was brought up by spawn. Hes my friend but I have to disagree with him. The Thermaltake ProWater 850I kit that I have has been running 24/7 in my server for 1 year 3 months now. Copper Rad, Copper block, and aluminum res. I use the Thermaltake fluid like specified in the directions and it is showing no signs of corrosion at all. IMO the problems come when people use other fluids than the thermaltake fluid.
Charles (CJ) Gantt: Coil Gun // Biohazard // Circuits // 3D Printer // CoD MW2 Case // TBCS 4GHz Club
Sites: The Makers WorkBench // CJ Gantt Photography
So considering everyone's comments here is what I have come up with:
Liquid Cooling Setup
Pump: DD-CPX-Pro
Reservoir: DD XSPC Single bay
Radiator: Black Ice GT Xtreme 280 RadiatorI would prefer 140mm Rad but all of them are over $100... anything good for the sub $100?
Rad Fans: Yate Loon's 140mm (by popular demand lol)
CPU Water Block: Swiftech Apogee XT (R2) revision 2
GPU Water Block: DD-Tieton
Tubing: Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) Clear Tubing 15' just to be safe. There is like 4 different kinds of Tygon... is this the right one?
Liquid: Distilled water + PT Nuke-PHN and the dye below.
Liquid Dye: PrimoChill Blood Red DYEBOMB or PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - Blood Red or something better?
Temp Indicator: I still want one. Ideas?
Fill Port: Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port
Drain Port:
O-Rings: Some nice Red O-Rings
Other Items
System Fans: 200mm Cooler Master Mega Flow's for the top
Fan Control: Sentry 2
LED Kit: http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/cas..._led_kit_-_red These LEDs look amazing.
PCI Slot replacemets: This or this. I want to paint them red.
Things needed
Figuring out a loop
How to add drain port (add to drawing of loop)
Type of paint to use
So far so good?