Update: Here's pics of the back now that it's all sealed up. Using the stock wiring locations to start my harness.
Here is the fully installed finished job. 944 control arms, 944 balljoints, 944 brakes and SS brake lines. AWW YEAHHHHHH.
Wheel fitment. I know what you're thinking... "But Derek, those poke out too much!"
Do they?
I think not... check it out... remember that because of camber and the way a car's suspension compresses that tires do not move straight up, but the suspension pivots with the camber.
It's close. BUT... IT FITS.
fender flares?
I could, not sure if it's really necessary though. We'll see. Once I get her out for her first tests I'll take measurements. If I don't like it, I could. They do make the Carrera flares for it, which look cool, and it can be moved over to 944 body work with 944 fenders. But, eh, I'm ok with it the way it is.
BTW here's a list of all the bodywork GT-Racing sells.
http://gt-racing.com/products-page/924944951-parts/
Link to the Carrera Flares.
http://gt-racing.com/wp-content/uplo...6986768234.jpg
And the front fenders for the Carrera Setup.
http://gt-racing.com/wp-content/uplo...298A-96x62.jpg
But again, that stuff gets spendy... only if i really need to will I consider it. I don't mind a little poke as long as it isn't rubbing the fender.
You know what that car looks like?
Mitsubishi Conquest
http://static.cargurus.com/images/si...pic-46274.jpeg
That sir, is one hell of a automobile
But anyways from the pics it doesn't look like its sticking out that much, i'd be worried about the large bumps though while at speed. you defiantly wouldn't want to suck up your inside fender cowl and spit it out into 90 pieces on the highway.... if them porches even have those plastic cowls.
But at any rate those rims need to be molested with the buffing ball for a good 2 hours a piece.
If I remember how the suspension works the camber increases at the higher rpm and the tires tuck even more. Same type of suspension used on most sandrails it is good stuff.
Camber is the angle of where the wheel sits. RPM wouldn't dictate how the suspension is since that's just the rpms of the engine. However, your camber will help keep the tires flat when going around corners, help with your grip etc.
Here's an extreme example I found on google images:
http://www.trachschmak.com/wp-conten.../06/Camber.jpg
Essentially, since the car has negative camber, as the suspension compresses, it'll tuck in, rather than go straight up, since suspension pivots. Hope that clarifies a bit.
Here is another extreme example of when I autocrossed my 914. If you look on the side the car is compressing you can see how it compressed, likewise, on the side where the bodyroll is lacking, you can see how the tire is at an angle as it decompressed from the bodyroll.
The idea on a negative camber is that as you turn hard, your suspension is going to flex and the wheel is going to end up moving over a bit when that happens. On a 0 degree camber, if you corner hard enough, that wheel and tire would end up at a POSITIVE camber upon heavy cornering due to bodyroll. That means your contact patch is not making it's best efficiency. However, if you counteract that with a NEGATIVE camber, next time you corner, it's more likely to end up at a closer to 0 angle depending on your suspension setup, meaning you'll get a better, more desirable contact patch.
By the way.. got the master cylinder repaired today, will snag some pics laterAlso repainted it after I took it down to bare metal to keep it from rusting again.
Not to nitpick... but the Conquest was the Chrysler/Dodge name.. the Mitsubishi was called a Starion. The same car. Not sure what the Starion designation was, but the TSi version of the Conquest was absolutely crazy quick for it's time.
I agree the widebody kits on the 924 does give it a lot of the same look, and I like it.