My RepRap Build. (3d printer for those not in the know)

[Oneslowz28]

Just finished the technical drawing for the X - Stage. Here is a scaled down image so you guys can see what I am doing.

[knowledgegranted]

Those are some pretty complex drawings you got going on , wish I could do something of that level.

Looking good as always and with everything you do. Keep up the good work mate!

[Oneslowz28]

Ever had one of those nights where you could not sleep because you wanted to work on something. Tonight was one of those nights. I went ahead and cut out the new x stage and assembled it. It fits perfectly and moves smooth as butter. I will post pics tomorrow.

[Collinstheclown]

Mmmmm technical drawings.... Good job so far, keep it up!




-CollinstheClown

[Oneslowz28]

Update time:

So I got a little restless last night and could not sleep. So what better to do than work on the McWire. I cut the new X stage plexi out and assembled all if the parts.

The first thing I had to do was glue the hand drawn X stage to the plexi. An Elmers glue stick make quick work of this. I used a ruler to smooth out any bumps and ripples.

Did the same with the bearing arms

Then I had to cut them out.

My jigsaw is a little old and the cuts were a little rough. Nothing a little sanding on the drum sander wouldn't fix. I pre-drilled all the holes.

Then counter sunk the 4 holes that required it.

Removed the protective paper and everything looks great.

Now I laid out all of the hardware and parts I needed to assemble the X stage.

Next I attached the PTFE slide bearings and the Skate bearings that go on the outside of the front rail.

The next step is to attach the remaining 2 bearings to the bearing arms. The order goes like this. 5/16 flat head screw>bearing arm> 5/16" flat washer>skate bearing>hex nut.

Now lets build the captive nut. This is the nut that will convert the radial motion of the lead screw and convert it into linear motion. You need a 1/4 - 20 coupling nut and a roll of electrical tape. Wrap the nut with the tape until it is thick enough that it just fits inside of the conduit support. You want it to be just snug. Not so bulky that it has to be forced to fit.

Now lets finish assembling the x stage. Install the bearing arms onto the bottom of the plexi using 5/16 machine screws. Place a 5/16 washer between the bearing arm and x stage plexi. Then slide on the bearing arm. Add another washer then a hex nut. Repeat for the next side. Then bolt on the captive nut using the same M5 cap screws that you used for the PTFE bearings.

Now put it on the rails and make sure everything fits.

Now we need to add some tension to hold the bearings on the bearing arms firm against the rail. A 4" 5lb extension spring will work nicely. I drilled a 3/16" hole in the middle of the bearing arms and bent the spring ends so I could slide them though the holes. Then I bent them back flat with the bearing arms. The excess spring loop is tucked inside the spring.

Now I am off to build the Y stage.

[Collinstheclown]

This reminds me alot of the easy mill, but a bit more pro. Not to mention its a printer.




-CollinstheClown

[Oneslowz28]

The main design is a previous design for a Desktop CNC router by Tom McWire. He posted the design under the GPL and the RepRap core team modified and improved upon the design to make it more precise and stable. The only real major difference is the print head will be bolted to the z stage instead of a dremel. I have been thinking of putting together a parts kit that will include everything but the stepper motors and the electronics.

[SXRguyinMA]

nice work! lookin good. +rep for the work on the drawings!

[Oneslowz28]

Thanks for the rep. On a side note does anyone know of a good source for solder paste in a syringe.

[rendermandan]

Looking good... Any idea what your maximum travel distances are for this? all directions?