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Thread: mightyMite

  1. #91
    Will YOU be ready when the zombies rise? x88x's Avatar
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    As I've been reading over pOPe's 'DnA - revisited' thread, I happened to notice that completely by accident, it turns out that all the PCBs in my build will be black (which fits well with the color scheme).


    I also today finally got my WC loop run:


    pulled out of the case:


    and filled:


    Now it's running as paint dries, to hopefully pull out all the air bubbles. I gotta say, I didn't really anticipate the actual filling of the loop to be such a pain, though it was probably made much worse by me not having a fill point; I used the "bottom" port on the res..while turned upside-down, so I had not much leeway at all in between top-ups.

    EDIT: also, w00tz! 10 pages!

  2. #92
    A big old Tease Apparently DonT-FeaR's Avatar
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    looks great good work on the loop
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    you tease!

  3. #93
    Project: Elegant-Li The boy 4rm oz's Avatar
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    Loop looks good but may I ask why you chose to use the 90 degree barbs from the rad to the GPU? The 90 degree fittings were hardly needed and it just makes the overall loop look a little cramped around the mobo.
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  4. #94
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    Quote Originally Posted by The boy 4rm oz View Post
    Loop looks good but may I ask why you chose to use the 90 degree barbs from the rad to the GPU? The 90 degree fittings were hardly needed and it just makes the overall loop look a little cramped around the mobo.
    Because otherwise it would have had to run straight through the PSU. It'll make more sense once I have the PSU in there. Also, coming out of the rad, there wouldn't have been space to use something other than the 90-degree fitting, because even with it, it almost scrapes the PSU mount (in fact, after painting, it might scrape it a little), and going into the GPU block, I think it only has about 1" or so of clearance.

    I gotta say, I'm glad I went with your recommendation and dropped down to 3/8" tubing; I really don't think the 1/2" would have fit...the case is a bit more cramped than I thought it was going to be (go figure :p). I was struggling for a long time, trying to figure out how I was going to get everything in there, and (perhaps more importantly) how I would go about taking everything out again if I needed to replace something. As a side-effect of having to work without the back panel, I ended up deciding to thread the screw holes for the back panel, and put that part on last. The PSU will still be a little awkward, but that's a lot better than having to cut up more of the frame.

  5. #95
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    Ah yeah I forgot about the PSU, makes perfect sense now lol. Yeah I told you the smaller tubing would be a better option, I will go going smaller again for my next W/C rig.
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  6. #96
    baaah. billygoat333's Avatar
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    good score on the monitor! I love simple fixes like that.

    how do you like that spray on liner stuff? that stuff would be perfect for my sub box I built, which is currently ugly plywood still lol
    Quote Originally Posted by Omega
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  7. #97
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    Quote Originally Posted by billygoat333 View Post
    good score on the monitor! I love simple fixes like that.
    Yeah, I'm really excited because it lets me put off buying another monitor

    how do you like that spray on liner stuff? that stuff would be perfect for my sub box I built, which is currently ugly plywood still lol
    It's actually really nice. I was a little disappointed at first because it seemed a little fragile, but once I actually let it dry 72 hours (like it says you're supposed to) it came out to a really nice, durable finish. I didn't realize just how tough till I started sanding down the portion around where I left it sitting on cardboard...it really drove home that the stuff is designed to be used as truck bed liner. It recommends using it on bare metal or primed surface, and doing 2 coats within a few minutes of each other, and I did 3 primer coats, followed by the recommended 2 coats a few minutes apart, then left the parts to dry for 72 hours. For the first batch, I made the mistake of flipping the parts after only an hour of drying, and ended up having to touch up several parts, so on the second batch I left them drying for about 32 hours before flipping and painting the other side, and there are no errors this time. The only down side is that it's about $7/can, and though the cans are a good bit larger than normal cans, that's just because of the little particles of..whatever it is. It covers about the same area as a normal can, maybe a little less.


    ....doh.....I just realized, in the pic of the monitors, I pointed out the wrong one. The one on the right is the 225BW.

    EDIT: Also, don't know if I mentioned this, but I was only able to find the bed liner stuff at Lowes.

  8. #98
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    So, question to the cloud. I can't seem to get this little bubble out:


    Now, keeping in mind that the highest point in my loop is gonna be the two rads, do you think this'll be a problem?

  9. #99
    baaah. billygoat333's Avatar
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    thanks for the info on the spray liner stuff +rep. will have to check it out. and 7 bucks a can isnt too bad... considering @ autozone its like 90 bucks a gallon for bedliner in a can... lol dont think I need a whole gallon just for my sub box, although I could just skip the primer and do a super heavy coat on it... haha
    Quote Originally Posted by Omega
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  10. #100
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    Default Re: mightyMite

    well, I tested the PSU before assembling everything and it worked just fine....now after stuffing everything into the new case, it stopped working...now to bang my head against the wall for a while, trying to figure out why....

    EDIT:
    and...I tried it with a PSU I know works....and something on the MBB flashed red and the whole thing died...

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