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Thread: Drill spec recommendations

  1. #1

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    Default Drill spec recommendations

    Time to upgrade my little workshop. I think I lent my drill to someone and I never got it back, anyway I bought a DeWalt drill to tide me over (I'll be returning it) but I wanted to ask what amp and torque ratings you guys look for in a drill your going to use to cut through thin gauge steel\aluminum using hole saws.

    The DeWalt's specs
    8 amps
    3/8 chuck
    keyless
    2500rpm max
    no clutch setting unfortunatly

    This was the cheapest (good) drill Home Depot had and needed one for a project and I didnt have time to look around and compare. I'd prefer something corded and relatively cheap, 18v cordless drills are usually around $200+ and I dont feel like spending $200+
    Last edited by ZeD; 03-28-2005 at 12:52 PM.

  2. #2
    ATX Mental Case
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    Hmm i dont know, Mekitta ( think thats how its spelled) is used by construction people, and ive always herd good things. My parents who have a huge shop, seem to have gone black and decker with everthing... I dont know how it rates, i think they just like the interchangeable battery things.
    "It's time to prove to your friends that you're worth a damn. Sometimes that means dying, sometimes it means killing a whole lot of people."

  3. #3

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    Makita is a top rate company, black and decker does make decent stuff aswell but they have veered away from industrail strength tools to more of a home appliance company that also happen to make tools. They're meant more for the at home do it yourself type of person rather than the die hard tool company they used to be. I wasn't asking for manufacturer recommendations, simply minumum specs you would use. I personally would go with Makita, DeWalt, Craftsman, Milwaukee, and Bosch. Hilti and Senco make great power tool aswell but they aren't the cheapest tools around

  4. #4
    ATX Mental Case
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    I don't really see the amp and torque specs being much of an issue unless you are trying to go with the minimum that will get you by. Even then, you can always use some finesse in your drilling technique to make an underpowered drill work. It doesn't really sound like that is what you are looking for in a tool but if it is I'd just choose a price range you are willing to pay and buy the most powerful one in that range. If you are going with a corded drill, I can't see you going wrong with any of the brands you mentioned. I don't know specs off-hand but I've never known a quality corded 3/8s that couldn't handle more drilling than most people would care to do. The real question is how big a hole are you talking about and how many do you plan to do. The bigger the hole, the harder it is on the drill. The more you are going to use it, the better quality drill you'll want. I personally would stick with Makita or DeWalt (assuming I had the money) since they have all metal gearing. Heavier but they last longer.
    Last edited by Bum; 03-29-2005 at 01:33 AM. Reason: clarifying

  5. #5

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    I couldnt find any gearbox material info but Im going to assume even the cheap drills use metal gearboxes, I cant see a power drill using plastic. I'll be using this DeWalt drill for the next few weeks and unless something seriously sticks out about it I will probably just keep it. 8 amps and 240lbs of torque should be plenty for around the house and modding work, I aint drilling through brick or marble here.

  6. #6
    ATX Mental Case
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    Believe it or not, many drills do have at least some amount of plastic in the gearbox assembly. It is usually in the supports (housing) but that is still a stressed part of the gearing. They do it to keep weight and costs down. The ones that have all metal gearboxes usually advertise it. I'd look for that if you decide to not keep the DeWalt.

  7. #7
    Overclocked Guttenaffe's Avatar
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    I use a Sears craftsman 19.6V Cordless that has 480 in/lbs of torque. I believe it too because the 1st time I used a 3" bi-metal hole saw I about broke my arm when it snagged when I didn't have a max torque setting.
    I never did that again

    I have a little 7.2V cordless I use for other all my other stuff

    Plastic in gearboxes wont hurt anything, they are tested and unless abused the plastic shouldn’t break. Though it may lower the entire lifespan of the drill because plastic does harden and become brittle over time.

  8. #8
    Overclocked
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guttenaffe
    Plastic in gearboxes wont hurt anything, they are tested and unless abused the plastic shouldn’t break. Though it may lower the entire lifespan of the drill because plastic does harden and become brittle over time.
    By then something else would have broken already. nothing wrong with plastic. It just depends on the type.
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  9. #9
    Fresh Paint
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    Default Re: Drill spec recommendations

    I use a Ryobi 18v cordless. Bought it at Home Depot for $99, came with 2 batteries and a charger.
    It is my understanding that another company now owns Ryobi, I think it's Dewalt or Black and Decker (which Dewalt owns B&D anyway). The newer 18v drills seems to develop a problem after a few uses. The problem it a short in the trigger, almost like the contacts move out of place or something.
    Rigid is supposed to be pretty darn good, but haven't tried them yet.

    Drill specs? I usually don't pay attention. As long as the drill I'm interested in is at least 18v, I'm pretty happy (24v is much better though)

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