Painting LCD Monitor - noobs best guess at how to do it...

Hi All,

I have been wanting to paint the frame of my LCD monitor for a while now, after reading a couple of posts in this forum, I think I know how to attempt it. However, before I break out the spray praint I would appreciate it if the experts out there could comment on my planned approach below:

Preparation:

The frame of my LCD monitor is easily dettached, so I dont need to worry about masking the actuall LCD screen or anything like that.

I understand I need to scuff the surface with a 1000(?) grit paper prior to applying the primer. After each coat of primer (2-3) wet sand with 1000(?) grit paper.

Painting:

One area I'm still not clear on is how I should position the plastic LCD frame before I start painting. Should I lay it flat on the floor and stand over it when spraying, or should I prop it up against a wall and spray it?

Apply 2-3 coats of colour, wet sanding with 2000(?) grit in between coats. Apply 2 coats of clear, wet sading with 2000(?) grit in between coats.

Polish / Wax:

Not sure what I should be doing here. Suggestions welcome

I also dont have a clue what paint I should use or what type of plastic the LCD frame is, any suggestions?

Oh, I'm also planning on painting the frame white, not sure if colour has any impact on the overall process.

Thanks guys.

Edit: My bad - just realised I should have posted this in Rookies Nook.

Your plans seem pretty sound so far - just don't be tempted to cut any corners - take your time. As for the type of plastic, it doesn't really matter much as long as the primer you use is designed for plastic. After that, you're painting the primer, not the plastic so any type of paint should be ok as long as it doesn't specifically say you can't use it on plastic primer. Apply several thin coats instead of one thick one - and as for location, my personal preference is to have things hanging up. I find somewhere on the item to be painted where I can apply a piece of fishing line and paint it hanging in mid-air - by doing that, I can make 100% sure that I don't miss any bits as you can duck around it and check every surface properly. As you don't seem too sure about what grit of paper to use, bear the following in mind - the finer (higher number) you use, the more you'll have to sand but the smoother finish you'll get - if you have the patience, use very fine all the way through the painting - the only time you really need anything coarser is directly on the plastic before priming - a slight texture there will give you a really good key for the primer to bind to, and your subsequent coats of paint, when sanded will result in a nice smooth finish. Not entirely sure you'll need to use clear - if you're using a flat white paint, as opposed to a metallic or perlesceant, clearcoat isn't always required - what it will do is make the finished job more shiny and resistant to scratches though. When painting cars, 2k flat paints usually aren't clearcoated at all as they have a good smooth shiny hard finish without clearcoat (or lacquer depending on the terminology you prefer)

[EDIT] Regarding polish/wax - basically DON'T - give the paintjob plenty of time to fully dry and cure before going anywhere near it with wax or polish - I don't mean hours either - I mean weeks or maybe even months.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by slaveofconvention

I mean weeks or maybe even months.[/COLOR]

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Check the side of the can of paint you're using, it should tell you drying time on it. If you are using a matte paint then it is probably safe to use stuff like that on it once it is dry to the touch, however if it is glossy, then you will need to let it dry overnight. Waiting 'weeks or maybe even months' would be dumb. I spend most of my life painting with spraypaint and have never found a paint which takes more than a night to dry!

Actually, onelegout, he's right about the weeks or months for applying a wax finish. They may seem dry the next morning, but the solvents are still very much in there, and will seep out over the next couple weeks, especially depending on ambient temperature. It is best to wait at least 14 days, and ideally 30, before applying wax finishes to achieve the high-gloss finish that a wax provides, as they can seal in the solvents, causing bubbles and imperfections on a surface.

As far as where to put your item you are painting, Slave was right on about hanging it - I hang items up in the center of my workshed, away from other items to avoid accidentally overspraying them, and use a thin wire to suspend it, so that I don't have to worry about the paint "glue"ing the piece to the floor/wall. My recommendation is to use two wires to hang it - one for each corner - so that it won't spin in place as you paint it, and so that you don't have to chase down the part you need as it spins.

From the sounds of it, you are looking for a shiny, pimp-ass finish to your final product, and glossy finishes are most susceptible do damage - they show scratches and imperfections the most. Take care in the preparation before you start - wash your piece thoroughly using Simple Green or another good cleaner, even soap and water will work, but soap can leave oily residues that can detract from a perfect finish. Use a primer coat first, a couple thin coats are sufficient. Put thin layers down - do NOT overdo it. Take your time. Use a couple clear coats after letting your piece dry for a day or two, again, in thin coats, and sand in between. The clear coats will help enhance your gloss, and most importantly, will provide a measure of protection from dings and scratches.

Again, when letting your piece dry, make sure that is in a safe place, and preferably covered, although with good ventilation, to prevent dust and specs and tiny hairs from getting embedded in your surface. This is especially important in your final couple of clear coats, as you can sand out small imperfections early on, but the last coats you have to be really careful with.

I hope this helps!